introduction to muay thai
In traditional Muay Thai fights, each match is preceded by a ceremonial dance known as the Wai Kru Ram Muay (typically shortened as Wai Kru) which is a homage to one’s teacher, parents and/or the King. Each bout goes for 5 rounds with 2-minute breaks between each 3-minute round. So a match typically last around 25 minutes except in the occasions of knockouts. For the stadium shows, there are usually 7-9 match-ups with the first 2-3 fights showcasing the youngest fighters. The main event is scheduled for the 6-7th fight but it’s worth arriving early for at least the 3rd or 4th fight onward where the action really picks up. Of course, if you want to get your money’s worth, you should arrive before the first fight.
In traditional stadium Muay Thai, round 1s tend to be slow as each fighter tries to get a feel of his opponent’s reach and style. The action typically goes full-gear in round 3s and 4s, and slows down again in round 5 when the winner is more or less already decided.
Muay Thai rules are complex with an even more complex scoring system. It will take a full article to explain the intricacies of how a winner is decided but the fights are enjoyable enough for what they are.
Part of Muay Thai’s attraction for tourists is the enthusiastic presence of gambling at the events. There will be a lot of hand gesturing going on at the traditional stadiums (see the first 3 stadiums below), very similar to hand signalling in financial trading floors. These are the gamblers and bookmakers signalling the odds for each fight. Muay Thai in Bangkok is one of few venues where gambling is allowed and one of few simple pleasures of the working class. Very rowdy, very interesting to watch, and makes for a very atmospheric experience.
See muay thai fights
Rajadamnern Stadium
When: Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays typically from 6-630pm onwards and end around 10pm. Drinks and food from outside are not allowed (and they will check at the doors) but a attendant goes around to take orders for drinks and snacks.
How to get there: Taking a Taxi here should take around half an hour or less from the nearest skytrain stations (Phaya Thai, Victory Monument, or Ratchathewi) which will cost 100 baht or under.
Entry: 2000 baht for ringside seats and 1500 for second class seats (offer a better view since it’s a level higher than the ringside seats). Club class tickets cost 1800 with similar views to second class seats but probably come with some privileges. Many gyms in Bangkok are affiliated with the stadium so if you are training at any, check with your gym to see if there is any discount for ringside tickets
Lumpinee stadium
When: Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The best shows tend to be during the weekdays but there will be the occasional big names or title fights on Saturdays. Drinks and food from outside are not allowed but a attendant goes around to take orders for drinks and snacks.
How to get there: take the BTS to Mo Chit or the MRT to Phahon Yothin, then transfer to a taxi . Flag a cab and ask to be taken to Lumpinee at Ram Inthra road. . The cab fare to Lumpinee should cost somewhere around 250 baht (including toll charges) and half that for the return trip.
Entry: 2000 baht for ringside. As with Rajadamnern, discounts are offered for people training in affiliated gyms in Bangkok. You may ask for second class or third class seats at the box office.
The Channel 7 stadium
When: Channel 7 shows are held every Sundays and broadcasted on Thailand national TV. The shows start around 215pm but it pays to come 45 minutes to 1 hour earlier for good seats. Alternatively, arrive after 3pm where most tourists would have left after the 3rd bout and you have choices of reasonably good seats. Bring your own drinks and snacks.
How to get there: It will be a 15-minute walk to the Channel 7 studio from the market or the nearest BTS station (Mo Chit) or MRT (Chatuchak). Walk down the road opposite of Chatuchak park with the huge parking garage on your right. Turn right at the road where you see the BTS headquarters building and keep walking for another 5 minute. You will see the security guards directing visitors and traffic at the studio. Just follow the crowd from there.
Entry: Free!
learn muay thai
Eminent air Thai boxing gym is located in Punnawithee soi 20, In close proximity of Unico hostel. It offers daily practice sessions and getting good exercise is guaranteed.
Price for training session is 500 baht.